I went up the road to the water inlet to the Montgomery Reservoir and up the approach boulder field. There was powder snow over a thin sheen of ice which made footing treacherous. Coming back down would be like walking down a water slide.
At the ice I scoped out a few possibilities, but because I hadn't expected there to be anything really worth climbing I had only brought minimal gear. I decided a slabby WI2 would be okay, so I got my limited amount of gear out.
- 2 stubbies (short screws)
- 2 normal screws
- 4 wiregate draws
- 30 meters of 9.8 mm rope
I figured I could lead solo that. It's been a long time since I did a lead solo and I didn't want to spook myself too badly. I didn't think I'd fall off a WI2. At the bottom of the slab though was a great steep boulder field to fall into and break bones and stuff.
I had to snag a locker from my rapping rig on my harness to set up the bottom anchor. I messed around with tying into the rope, which caused a tough tangle that forced me to untie about 20' above my last piece to get it sorted out.
|heading to a tree for a rap down, but not enough rope or gear|
Anyway, I have to take more stubbies next time. And slings. And lockers. There will be a next time. Soon.
I posted a longer article with more pics HERE if you're interested.