Thursday, May 30, 2013

Butterfly Knots on Backup Rope

This is totally old-school, but you can use butterfly knots set about 5-10' apart on a rope as either your backup or even as your primary protection for toprope solo. Just put a bunch of them along the rope you'll be using, make sure they're tied well, and off you go. You clip them just as you would clip a bolt as you ascend. It will make sense if you give it a shot.


Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Lead Rope Solo on a Mammut BRD

Just don't do it. I took the kids out to a local crag for some fun toproping and was lazy so didn't feel like the hike to set up on the little 5.6. The 5.7 next to it is easier to get to from the top of the crag on a little hike, but the 5.6 is  bit harder to get to, with either a really nasty hike around the cliff or a little traversing unprotected. I decided to lead up the 6, and discovered I'd forgotten my GriGri in my ice climbing bag. So I hooked up this Mammut BRD as in belaying a second. It worked okay for "falling" but climbing was a real drag, requiring two hands to pull rope through. Just don't do it.